tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-51679161231444626082024-03-13T08:52:55.971-07:00Jamma NinjaAdventure into the world of electronics & arcade pcb restoration..Nimajaminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17426450963723377974noreply@blogger.comBlogger22125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5167916123144462608.post-22647139148148937562014-01-22T13:58:00.000-08:002014-01-28T03:00:36.045-08:00Kung Fu Master - Repair Log<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cCdGC34hdFs/UubQaJhEBEI/AAAAAAAAAJU/92Hdw5mbPb0/s1600/Kung+Fu+Master+marquee.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cCdGC34hdFs/UubQaJhEBEI/AAAAAAAAAJU/92Hdw5mbPb0/s1600/Kung+Fu+Master+marquee.jpg" height="103" width="320" /></a></div>
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Kung Fu Master - Repair Log</h2>
I've had this one in my <i>to-do</i> pile for many months now, the pcb belongs to a fellow member of the <a href="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/" target="_blank">Jamma+</a> site; <b>Beaps</b>.<br />
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I felt really bad for having this one in the shop for so long, but after many dead-ends I'd finally made some progress.<br />
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The
middle board originally seemed to have several intermittent soldering failures -
cracked joints, burnt pins (from previous repairs perhaps?) and a few scratched
traces - and the on-screen faults would come and go if the boards were tapped or flexed.<br />
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<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/kfm_10_DeadSolder.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
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First off, I bypassed the burned pads with jumper wires..<br />
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<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/kfm_11_Jumper.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
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And likewise the cut traces..<br />
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<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/kfm_14_Traces.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
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(Taped the wires down once the job was complete)<br />
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<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/kfm_15_Traces.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
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Thought
that would be the end of it.. but what was previously an intermittent glitch had became a rather permanent problem. The more I
worked on the board, the worse it seemed to get (..and hence returned to the pile many times, for months). :/<br />
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But
last night I recognised the visual glitch as being similar to a problem
I encountered while working on an unrelated FPGA project..<br />
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<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/kfm_16_PostTracesMax.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
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So the instinct led me to the bus multiplexers.. the: 74LS157 chips.<br />
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Swapped the first one out..<br />
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<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/kfm_12_FistMux.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
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Like so..<br />
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<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/kfm_13_FistMux.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
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But now the fault was more <i>solid</i> than before - not fixed, but stable - were on the right track I guess..<br />
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Looking around the board I found four more 74LS157's, and with the trusty ninja-finger technique..<br />
if the pins of two of them were touched (without applying pressure), the pattern on the screen changed from, this:<br />
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<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/kfm_17_NoFinger.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
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To this:<br />
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<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/kfm_18_WithFinger.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
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To me this indicates floating-pins, or dead memory cells (depending on the chip at hand).<br />
And sure enough, all the 157's were Fugitsu's - which are known to have their gold wires detach from the silicon over time.. (this is well documented in many repair logs)<br />
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This ether detaches a pin completely & makes it 'floating' (neither 0 or 1) - or (as with this board initially) would produce an intermittent fault - even though the pcb looks good - it will be affected by vibration / prodding.<br />
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So went round with a logic probe & mapped out the state of all the pins while it was running..<br />
(z = tri-state)<br />
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<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/kfm_19_2_DeadPins.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
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It turned out 3 more 74LS157 chips were pretty Fek'ed..<br />
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<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/kfm_19_DeadPins.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
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Next, I piggy-backed some new chips on the back of the old & on powering up the pcb, the display was restored!! \o/ Yay!<br />
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Unfortunatly.. murphy's law struck!<br />
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While de-soldering the three ic's several pads & the connected tracks came away with the iron!<br />
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The heat wasn't even set that high!! Argh!! Ruined!! Noooooooooo..<br />
(a proper Darth-Vader moment)<br />
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<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/kfm_21_HardDesolder.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
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Gutted! a real deal breaker potentially, so to be thorough I mapped out where all the affected pads went to with a continuity tester & draw a diagram (you can't see the traces once you fit the chips back):<br />
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<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/kfm_22_MappedOut.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
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Decided to solder the three new chips straight into the PCB - because you can't solder the top side under a socket.<br />
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And patched her up with kynar wire:<br />
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<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/kfm_23_Patched.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
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Then by 2am.. *drum roll* ..... All in check!<br />
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Kung Fu Master was once again, restored to it's former glory.<br />
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<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/kfm_24_Working.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
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And as they say...<br />
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<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/kfm_25_GameOver.jpg" height="300" width="400" />Nimajaminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17426450963723377974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5167916123144462608.post-60596007514545398022014-01-20T18:39:00.000-08:002014-01-27T18:42:58.988-08:00Shinobi - Repair Log<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--gIqKxdllQ0/UucPwm4QVHI/AAAAAAAAAKw/1M5VBEtaBco/s1600/shinobi+marquee.pdf-vector.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--gIqKxdllQ0/UucPwm4QVHI/AAAAAAAAAKw/1M5VBEtaBco/s1600/shinobi+marquee.pdf-vector.jpg" height="87" width="320" /></a></div>
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Shinobi - Repair Log</h2>
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Thanks to a supreme act of kindness of a very kind gentleman (who works next door) I am now in possession of an absolute classic..! (He also happens to run a rather good <a href="http://www.smspower.org/" target="_blank">8bit Sega preservation site</a>)</span></span><br />
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">The seminal </span></span><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption"><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">1986-'87 </span></span>Sega p.c.b. <b>Shinobi</b>
\o/ </span></span><br />
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Much <3 for this game! Thanks again dude, insanely kind of you ..I'll get her working again.</span></span><br />
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">In fact, I actually managed to on the same night I recieved the board. :D </span></span><br />
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<br /><span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">First port of call: several physically broken capacitors on the top ROM board:</span></span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KsKb_8hP5Lk/UucSK1iZpQI/AAAAAAAAAMU/wTlQr-jY4t0/s1600/1537607_10151776032276362_1977256195_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KsKb_8hP5Lk/UucSK1iZpQI/AAAAAAAAAMU/wTlQr-jY4t0/s1600/1537607_10151776032276362_1977256195_o.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a> </div>
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Desoldered all four smoothing-caps from the top ROM board:</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gKPbN9kQzRk/UucSJcyBtwI/AAAAAAAAALo/12mwOsQ_aJU/s1600/1522998_10151776035131362_378842168_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--Uh7y5Y66lk/UucSM2psL2I/AAAAAAAAANc/l7R76K0_RFI/s1600/1617960_10151776032541362_2077929095_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--Uh7y5Y66lk/UucSM2psL2I/AAAAAAAAANc/l7R76K0_RFI/s1600/1617960_10151776032541362_2077929095_o.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a> <a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WONaQxI9D88/UucSJ-J9-dI/AAAAAAAAAMA/X_WpkPEhf8Q/s1600/1529955_10151776032221362_373325383_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Found 220uf replacements in the parts box.. they are a little larger / high rated, but they will work nicely.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Gzeu42-CEh4/UucSJnCNahI/AAAAAAAAAL4/8n4Ab9RI-aU/s1600/1524035_10151776032596362_552791460_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Gzeu42-CEh4/UucSJnCNahI/AAAAAAAAAL4/8n4Ab9RI-aU/s1600/1524035_10151776032596362_552791460_o.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Like so:</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EEeElXLueBg/UucSHkLlGxI/AAAAAAAAALA/CI_zAj72nBA/s1600/1496480_10151776032701362_593853422_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EEeElXLueBg/UucSHkLlGxI/AAAAAAAAALA/CI_zAj72nBA/s1600/1496480_10151776032701362_593853422_o.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a> </div>
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Still no luck though.. this wasn't enough to bring the board back to life..</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3dVY6W57YhI/UucSH-gg5BI/AAAAAAAAALI/u-Q7cr0gjKw/s1600/1501177_10151776032791362_452102702_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3dVY6W57YhI/UucSH-gg5BI/AAAAAAAAALI/u-Q7cr0gjKw/s1600/1501177_10151776032791362_452102702_o.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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So I next assumed the encryted CPU's battery had run dry, and lost it's memory..</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ndW79jLq0Uw/UucSIKyXLwI/AAAAAAAAALk/oI2yBFXHEY0/s1600/1517861_10151776033051362_1337206495_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ndW79jLq0Uw/UucSIKyXLwI/AAAAAAAAALk/oI2yBFXHEY0/s1600/1517861_10151776033051362_1337206495_o.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a> </div>
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So swapped out the CPU for a stock 68000 processor:</div>
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..burned a pair of replacement unencrypted program ROMs.</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CRiSNEzDYjA/UucSJVfzP-I/AAAAAAAAAME/e0pLkxd6a_s/s1600/1523125_10151776032941362_2138852058_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CRiSNEzDYjA/UucSJVfzP-I/AAAAAAAAAME/e0pLkxd6a_s/s1600/1523125_10151776032941362_2138852058_o.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a> </div>
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But still now picture! :'(</div>
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Probing
the video output pins with the scope showed that the RGB was working, </span></span></div>
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">but the SYNC line was static.. nada! </span></span></div>
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Following the trace from the SYNC
pin, round the edge of the board lead to this tiny scratch..</span></span> </div>
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">Under the microscope.. It's a clean break, we have a winner.</span></span></div>
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">I soldered over the break, but thought it a bit weak.. </span></span></div>
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<span class="fbPhotosPhotoCaption" data-ft="{"type":45,"tn":"*G"}" id="fbPhotoSnowliftCaption" tabindex="0"><span class="hasCaption">So fitted a thin green wire that bypasses the cracked trace.</span></span></div>
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Which ran from the Jamma connector:</div>
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Right across the pcb - to the other end of the cracked-trace: </div>
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And once the little power was applied....</div>
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\o/ Shinobi lives again :D</div>
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An absolute classic game! Hard as nails of the highest difficulty setting!!</div>
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Hopefully this game will last another 26 years to come :)</div>
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But...
the 50Hz borders sucked ass & game the region compatibility seemed
hit 'n' miss with the revision of Everdrive cart I have (1.3/6?) So
decided to venture into mod-ing the sucker.<br />
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Ordered a couple of
switches to be collected in-store @ Maplin (and picked up a couple of
spares, just in case).. rushed home all excited, and..<br />
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<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/snes_000_Switches.JPG" height="300" width="400" /><br />
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Argh!!! :'(<br />
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The switches had their third pin missing!! What the hell man!?! There's
a hole where the pin should be, but no pin! Why? Just don't solder a
wire on it FFS!!!<br />
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Hah! Lucky I picked up those red ones off the shelf huh ¦) - But WTF? They're spring loaded!! <br />
Noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo!<br />
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Bugger
- It would have cost me more in tube fare to go back than the switches
cost & felling impatient, I had to find a way - so went rummaging
through the parts box.. And found this little lot:<br />
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<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/snes_001_Parts.JPG" height="300" width="400" /><br />
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This is how a computer programmer make a toggle switch :-{)} using a 20 MIP computer (The Atmel AtTiny85).<br />
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I
began by performing the physical end of the 60Hz / Region mods, by
lifting some surface mount pins & attaching kynar wire to the
relevant points:<br />
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<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/snes_002_Mods.JPG" height="300" width="400" /><br />
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I
then used a larger (Mega0256) Arduino to write a small program that
read two push buttons and if held down for about a 10th of a second
would toggle one of two output pins that I attached to an RGB Led to
test its behavior.<br />
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<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/snes_003_PushMe.JPG" height="300" width="400" /><br />
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I
made the toggle so that it would toggle as soon as the button was held,
but wouldn't toggle again until you released the button (and added
de-bouncing code to remove glitches).<br />
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Once the code worked I
plugged the AtTiny85 into a breadboard - wired the SPI pins to the
bigger Arduino & uploaded the ArduinoISP sketch to it.<br />
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Re-jiggled
the pin numbers to match the smaller chips layout & then sent the
code via the Arduino - through & into the AtTiny85.<br />
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<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/snes_005_Brain.JPG" height="300" width="400" /><br />
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I
made the RGB Led light up blue when the power is on.. and the Red &
Green lights would toggle with the Red & Green switches.. So Blue
by default (PAL @ 60Hz) - Magenta for PAL @ 50Hz (B+R), Cyan (B+G) for
60Hz NTSC & White (R+G+B) for 50Hz NTSC.<br />
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Ran the wires
attached to the Red & Green Led pins directly to the mod-pins (The
red 60Hz wire ran through a 2.2K resistor iirc) - And mounted the Led in
place of the power light with some hot-glue:<br />
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<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/snes_004_RGBLed.JPG" height="300" width="400" /><br />
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Soldered the Led resistors directly to the bottom of an 8pin chip
socket, and the blue resistor is the 2.2K one feeding the 60Hz mod - all
sealed with hot-glue.<br />
<br />
(I left the top of the socket un-glued so I could re-program the chip if I need to in future.)<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/snes_006_HotGlue.JPG" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
More glue & insulation tape & job done :D<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/snes_007_Fitted.JPG" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Super pimped ¦) No borders by default - 95% of games run by default!!<br />
<br />
Technological overkill? - Naaaaah...<br />
<br />
And....... Atmel AtTiny85's are cheaper than a single Maplin's switch! :o)Nimajaminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17426450963723377974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5167916123144462608.post-67248654760875595262013-07-27T15:15:00.000-07:002014-01-27T15:17:47.456-08:00Snes Everdrive DSP1 InstallationGiving the Snes some love today. :)<br /><br />I managed to get hold of one of those Everdrive cart's :D ..but sadly the one without the DSP1 chip :'(<br />
(which is needed to play MarioKart or Pilotwings)<br /><br />So to source the needed components I picked up a <strike>crappy</strike> lesser known US cart called <b><i>Ballz 3D</i></b> - a console-mod forum tutorial pointed me at this title - as it has all three of the required components<br />
(And is quite frankly, a load of Ballz!).<br />
<br />So step-one was to get the Everdrive & Ballz-cart open :/<br />
<br />
Meh... security screws! :(<br /><br />Luckly there's a tutorial on youTube on how to melt the end of a biro and push it into a screw (while molten), to make a poor-mans security-screwdriver.. \o/<br />
<br /><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/snesScrews.jpg" width="400" /><br /><br />My
first attempt didn't go too well & biro plastic got stuck around
one the screw heads, but since I was practicing on the donor cart -
there was nothing a hack saw couldn't handle.<br />
<br />
<img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/snesDonor.jpg" width="400" /><br /><br />Had to desolder three components: a 74HCU04, Ceramic Oscilator & the DSP1 chip:<br />
<img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/snesParts.jpg" width="400" /><br /><br />Care
had to be taken when mounting the chips to te Everdrive pcb.. there are
several surface mount resistors right next to the IC pin holes!<br />
<br /><i><b>And</b></i> - The DSP1 chip has to mounted on the <b>back</b> side of the board & the Logic & Clock on the <b>front</b>!<br />
<br /><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/snesBack.jpg" width="400" /><br /><br />And the other (front) side:<br />
<br /><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/snesFront.jpg" width="400" /><br /><br />Reassembled the cart <i>WITHOUT</i> security screws! ;)<br />
<br /><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/snesBoot.jpg" width="400" /><br /><br />Happy days! <3<br /><br />We have: Pilotwings..<br />
<br /><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/snesPilotWings.jpg" width="400" /><br /><br />And more importantly..<br />
<br /><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/snesMarioKart.jpg" width="400" /><br /><br />Retro-tastic :D I haven't had a Snes for over 21 years! I'm old.. :/<br /><br />Oh..
also worth a mention.. I received an RGB SCART lead with the Snes I bought,
but upon plugging into my later-day LCD TV, the screen would fade to
black as soon as the picture became busy / too bright.<br />
<br />The
solution was to desolder three capacitors that were in-line with the R,G&B wires in the SCART plug.<br />
(I left the Cap on the Sync wire
& that seemed cool.)<br /><br /><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/snesRGB.jpg" width="400" />Nimajaminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17426450963723377974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5167916123144462608.post-10390116344814478592013-07-27T14:07:00.000-07:002014-01-27T14:16:51.287-08:00Recycled Master-System Cartridge<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Recycled Master-System Cartridge</h2>
Recently received some freebee Master-System cartridge PCB's from <b>steveBM1</b> over on <a href="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/" target="_blank">Jamma+</a>, a very kind fellow indeed!<br /><br />Went and fitted a 32 pin chip socket to one of the boards and naively burned a 27C020 (256k / 2Mbit) Eprom with Wonderboy 3 game data (love that game - still remember the cheat password: WE5TONE)<br /><br />But no boot.. :'(<br /><br />Later learned that Master-System Roms have custom logic inside to page in the blocks of data for games bigger than 32k.<br /><br />Apparently
you can re-use carts that have a second '<i>mapper</i>' chip, so for
now I thought I might try a 32K game burned onto a 27C256 chip.<br /><br />But............. The 27C256 has 4 less pins than the 27C020 (it's 28 pin, rather than 32)<br />
<br />From experience with the R-Type conversions, I knew that all the lower 26 pins are the same between the two chip types. So I burned a 32K Eprom with Teddy Boy and inserted it into the lower end of the socket.<br />I
had to then fit 2 wire bridges to bring the 5v line down to the top two pins of the 28 pin Eprom.<br />
<br />I also had to cut one trace that led from the third pin - to the edge connector (Shown below).<br /><br /><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/smsCartHookUp.jpg" width="400" /><br /><br />And here is the finished board in full:<br /><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/smsCartTop.jpg" width="400" /><br /><br />And again from below:<br /><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/smsCartBottom.jpg" width="400" /><br /><br />And you know what..? It worked! :D<br /><br />Just have to wait for a RGB SCART lead to turn up, my TV won't tune in well enough to get a good picture on RF.<br />
<br />
I'll also have to research this <i>mapper-chip</i> stuff.. might be able to build some logic to do this.Nimajaminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17426450963723377974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5167916123144462608.post-78405173151965259222013-07-26T14:49:00.000-07:002014-01-27T15:02:40.344-08:00Double Dragon - Repair Log - Day 3<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Blok2hYyA5M/Uubf5p00q2I/AAAAAAAAAJk/5pUamHkfIX4/s1600/Double+Dragon+marquee_psd.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Blok2hYyA5M/Uubf5p00q2I/AAAAAAAAAJk/5pUamHkfIX4/s1600/Double+Dragon+marquee_psd.jpg" height="106" width="320" /></a></div>
<h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Double Dragon - Repair Log - Day 3</h2>
Fixed the 1 & 2 player buttons I/O.. and all looks good for this one!<br />
<br />
Though on
my bartop i do get the occasional sync roll!?! :( .. I found the schematic to
see where the sync pin leads to, but if goes off one page & must
become Japanese on another. :/ <br />
<br />
I scoped the signals around the video connector and supply, and I get a
god solid 5v power rail, RGB going from 0-1v and the sync line going
from 0-2v .. Large 0 pulse (v blank) with finer 0-2v pulses in between
(h blank).<br />
<br />
I compared the signal with some other boards and it looks legit :D which suggests another theory..<br />
<br />
Are the sync issues due to the CGA-VGA converters I'm using on my flat-panel?<br />
<br />
Short answer.. Yes. The pcb was verified working by the owner on his CRT. <br />
<br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;"><b><span style="font-size: large;">WARNING!</span></b></span> (To anyone working on one of these boards!)<br />
<br />
I had to re-fit the four board spacers back between the two boards before it was taken away..<br />
<br />
Oh boy!!! <i>:S</i><br />
<br />
On double dragon there are two plastic spacers ... and two metal ones ... <i> </i><br />
<i>Yeeeeeeeah</i>...<br />
<br />
I placed them in a rather arbitrary arrangement, tightened the bolts & powered up.. <br />
Wait for it... F***in shite loads of smoke poured out of my Jamma loom!!! <br />
<br />
Turns
out that.. Well you know the big fat traces that run around the outside
of the PCB'S? They're usually <b>earth</b> / <i>ground</i> / <b>0 </b>volts, right?<br />
<br />
<b><i>Not this
time</i><i>!</i></b> One surface of each board is 0v and the other is 5v. Two of
the corner bolt holes are seperated buy a split in the PCB track
(running round the edge) - two are not.<br />
<br />
If you get the metal corners wrong then it's smoky time - so please be careful and make a note of where they came from when you take the boards apart!<br />
<br />
I
assume the metal rods actually carry the power and ground from the top
to the bottom board (when in the right corners) & the 0 & 5v on
each side of the board is acting as RFI suppression.<br />
<br />
Luckily there was no real damage done.. The direct short through the metal board spacer rods
protected the board.. I'm just gunna need some heavier cable for my 5v
line. ;) <br />
<br />
<b>"A dragon with two metal teeth!"</b>
<br />
<br />Nimajaminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17426450963723377974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5167916123144462608.post-69644039796625649582013-07-04T14:43:00.000-07:002014-01-27T14:48:49.030-08:00Double Dragon - Repair Log - Day 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Blok2hYyA5M/Uubf5p00q2I/AAAAAAAAAJk/5pUamHkfIX4/s1600/Double+Dragon+marquee_psd.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Blok2hYyA5M/Uubf5p00q2I/AAAAAAAAAJk/5pUamHkfIX4/s1600/Double+Dragon+marquee_psd.jpg" height="106" width="320" /></a></div>
<h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Double Dragon - Repair Log - Day 2</h2>
Okay.. I did something a little silly ..not in a baaaad way tho.<br /><br />I've bought another broken Double Dragon board on fleaBay to assist in the repair.. (hope I wasn't bidding against <b>Beaps</b>!! :D) - cost £37 all-in - ruuning at a lose, but hey, at least I can keep the scraps.<br />
<br />It
arrived last night & I immediately swapped the top board from the
new one with <b>Beaps</b> rusted one (remember the resistor pack issue?):<br />
<br /><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/ddResistors.jpg" width="400" /><br /><br />As the one I received locks up on boot, I fitted Beaps brand-new processor & US Rom set:<br />
<br /><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/ddCPU_Roms.jpg" width="400" /><br /><br />And... drum-roll....<br />
<br /><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/ddSoFar2.jpg" width="400" /><br /><br />We have a good picture - all that remains now is the player 1&2 start buttons don't respond, booo.. :(<br />
<br />Bet £1900 some one had previously rear-ended the 12v line.. (reversed the Jamma connector)<br /><br />There looks to be some previously attempted repairs around this region of the board, so I know where to look first..<br />
<br /><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/ddInputs.jpg" width="400" />Nimajaminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17426450963723377974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5167916123144462608.post-77641959610258366902013-06-22T14:38:00.000-07:002014-01-27T15:19:41.708-08:00Double Dragon - Repair Log - Day 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Blok2hYyA5M/Uubf5p00q2I/AAAAAAAAAJk/5pUamHkfIX4/s1600/Double+Dragon+marquee_psd.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Blok2hYyA5M/Uubf5p00q2I/AAAAAAAAAJk/5pUamHkfIX4/s1600/Double+Dragon+marquee_psd.jpg" height="106" width="320" /></a></div>
<h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Double Dragon - Repair Log - Day 1</h2>
Today <b>Beap</b>'s Double-Dragon board that came out to play.. <br />
<br />
<br />
Some repair work had previously been carried out on this board, and it looked like Ram & sound substitutions primarily.. The CPU had also been replaced.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/dd_Mobo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/dd_Mobo.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
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<br />
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<br />
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<br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
But on power up there was an unnerving buzz for two seconds and blocks of corrupt data in a static pattern across the screen. :(<br />
<br />
First I had to remove some rust from the sound side of the board..<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/dd_DeRust1.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
And there was a region of the board where a 5-pin-resistor-pack had been previously removed.. <br />
<br />
Cleaned the rust & crusty flux & ordered some parts..<br />
<br />
Will
have to completely rebuild the tracks - this damage
shouldn't stop the board from booting - but I won't expect the sound to
function too well until it is resolved.<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/dd_ToReBuild2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /> <br />
<br />
And from below:<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/dd_ToReBuild.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Also removed a big metal pin that was shorting a transistor:<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/dd_ShortRemoved.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
The
soldering around the previous repairs didn't look too healty, lots of
dry flux, a couple of shorted traces and maybe even a split track or two. :/<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/dd_OriginalSolder.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Cleaned it all up a bit.. reflowed the solder - removed all the shorts, and attempted a power test..<br />
<br />
It' booted! - Not without issue though.. but its playing and makes a few sound effects on start-up!<br />
<br />
Some progess at least. <br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/dd_SoFar01.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
The
sprites & BG-layers looked to be functioning.. looks like the Font
layer is glitched - will have to probe those Ram chips, to see if they have to be replaced.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/dd_SoFar03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/dd_SoFar03.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a><br />
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<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
To be continued...<br />
<br />Nimajaminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17426450963723377974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5167916123144462608.post-9215098419615701852013-05-06T13:58:00.000-07:002014-02-21T05:53:51.184-08:00Arkanoid Controller<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mG0ld6HY8hA/UwdaA4ndeLI/AAAAAAAAAN0/mTn3NPP4D38/s1600/ArkanoidMarquee-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mG0ld6HY8hA/UwdaA4ndeLI/AAAAAAAAAN0/mTn3NPP4D38/s1600/ArkanoidMarquee-1.jpg" height="112" width="320" /></a></div>
<h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Arkanoid Controller</h2>
<br />
Haven't done wood work since I left school, and that was a hell of a while ago.. ;)</div>
<div class="msgBody">
</div>
<div class="msgBody">
So being the bank-holiday I borrowed a drill to put up some garden fixtures & got a little side tracked *ahem* (the garden furniture never did get fixed).<br />
<br />
I decided to convert a cigar box into an Arkanoid spinner controller! (hate cigars anyway)</div>
<div class="msgBody">
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/ark0001.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Was lucky in finding a drill bit that fitted the diameter of a arcade button.. (It came with my son-in-law's car-camera kit!?! & he didn't need it.)<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/ark0002.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Meh - should have practiced, even after marking out the wood I managed to get one of the button holes 1mm too far to the left & managed to chip the veneer (though it will be covered by the plastic plate under the spinner). <br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/ark0003.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Dismantled the spinner & bolted her in.. <br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/ark0004.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Gotta love heat-shrink cable wrap!<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/ark0005.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Used
the cable from an ex-Dreamcast pad that I converted to Jamma previously.. </div>
<div class="msgBody">
</div>
<div class="msgBody">
For
brevity I just soldered the control wires directly to the Arkanoid-to-Jamma adapter. <br />
(I'll work out a plug arrangement perhaps.)<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/ark0007.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Coin-up
is still done by the service button on my test loom.. still don't know
why all my boards ignore the 'coin' wires & use 'service'?<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/ark0008.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Just need some proper player 1/2 buttons to finish it off.. but at least for now I can now play Arkanoid comfortably!! </div>
<div class="msgBody">
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/ark0009.jpg" height="400" width="300" /><br />
<br />
Thanks (again) to Ben76 (Over on J+) for the Arkanoid power plug & to Rob for the drill bit! :D<br />
<br />
Long
term I'd like to re-jig my BarTop into being able to have its monitor
rotated & then I'll attempt to build a custom CP for this game (with
a more authentic layout), but for now... It's all good!</div>
Nimajaminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17426450963723377974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5167916123144462608.post-70958543491926204592013-02-08T16:28:00.000-08:002014-01-28T03:00:13.043-08:00Bomberman World - Repair Log<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xseublEJLC4/Uub4zJztEbI/AAAAAAAAAJ0/QrjFZ4mMSJI/s1600/dynablaster2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xseublEJLC4/Uub4zJztEbI/AAAAAAAAAJ0/QrjFZ4mMSJI/s1600/dynablaster2.jpg" height="115" width="320" /></a></div>
<h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Bomberman World - Repair Log</h2>
<br />
Picked up a (rather cheap) iRem Bomberman World (Global Quest) arcade board from eBay today..<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/002_-_BM_Pcb.jpg" height="400" width="300" /><br />
<br />
Looked visually to be in good condition, but the seller did say it had been stored for a while.<br />
<br />
Plugged it into my BarTop and all seemed well.. coined it up & started a couple of games.. <br />
<br />
But, about 5 minutes things got a little odd.. :S<br />
<br />
When ever the game made a loud-bang (such as when the bombs went off)
the screen would go all frizzy & wobble out of sync.. & the VGA converter would then loose
signal-lock for a few seconds. <br />
<br />
This carried on for a bit, then all of a sudden...<b><br /></b><b><span style="color: red; font-size: x-large;"> B<span style="color: #ff6600;">O</span><span style="color: #ff9900;">O</span><span style="color: #ffcc00;">M</span><span style="color: yellow;">!</span></span></b><br />
<br />
<br />
Made everyone jump a mile!! ... The main smoothing cap on the 12 volt line (to the Amp) went bye, bye in a most violent way! (..and the misses got rather pissed off too :/)<br />
<br />
Bits of capacitor flew everywhere & hit me in the arm! :(<br />
<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/005_-_BM_Cap.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
A nice quick fix though..<br />
<br />
De-soldered & pulled the cap out, cleaned the board & dropped in a 40 volt replacement from the spares box (the original was rated 25v).<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/007_-_BM_NewCap.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Will
probably re-cap the whole power section at some point, the games a good
21 years old now (no surprise a cap has dried out after all this time).<br />
<br />
Have turned the board upside down, in case it goes bang again ;) ..soak tested it & looking good so far. :D<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/008_-_BM_Title.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Loved Bomberman on the Snes <i>bitd</i> & played a lot of the PCEngine version - well chuffed to finally own an original iRem version..!<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/009_-_BM_GameOver.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<span style="font-size: 10px;"><br /></span>Nimajaminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17426450963723377974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5167916123144462608.post-81875013011636798882013-01-05T17:40:00.000-08:002014-01-28T02:59:37.566-08:00Dual Boot R-Type 1 & 2 Arcade PCB - Day 6<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XpZhwgcPSJo/UucAQDh3GcI/AAAAAAAAAKM/JNMqF7Tt3kY/s1600/Dual+Boot+Par-Type+Marquee.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XpZhwgcPSJo/UucAQDh3GcI/AAAAAAAAAKM/JNMqF7Tt3kY/s1600/Dual+Boot+Par-Type+Marquee.jpg" height="101" width="400" /></a></div>
<h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Dual Boot R-Type 1 & 2 Arcade PCB - Day 6</h2>
<br />
Devised a solution for the game select switch mechanism:<br />
<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hS42vQ1F2og/UucL27_QD5I/AAAAAAAAAKg/xz3fUTv4PT8/s1600/unique+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hS42vQ1F2og/UucL27_QD5I/AAAAAAAAAKg/xz3fUTv4PT8/s1600/unique+2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /> </a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<ul>
<li>Cut a square of ABS plastic from some scrap from an IKEA cupboard corner (packing material)..</li>
</ul>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<ul>
<li>Melted a hole through the middle with the soldering iron & fitted a single pole dual throw toggle switch.</li>
</ul>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The whole assembly was then located in order that the switch sat within a retangular cut that was already present on the board: </div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nzD5cK1ijSw/UucL2ls0VgI/AAAAAAAAAKc/Q6CyXpSpAdQ/s1600/unique+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nzD5cK1ijSw/UucL2ls0VgI/AAAAAAAAAKc/Q6CyXpSpAdQ/s1600/unique+1.jpg" height="300" width="400" /> </a></div>
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<br /></div>
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Quick-dry Araldite was used to bond the plastic down to the PCB.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Two wires were connected to the left & right most pins of the switch & were soldered directly to the solder-pads of a nearby de-coupling capacitor (providing the required 0 & 5v signals).</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The <span style="color: #e69138;"><i>bydo-orange</i></span> master A/B <i>game-select</i> line is tied to the switches middle pin. </div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The main idea of mounting the switch upside down between the boards is to avoid switching during game play.. The power must be disconnected while switching between games.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Perhaps a future iteration could perform a system-wide reset when the switch is toggled?</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Fin. </div>
Nimajaminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17426450963723377974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5167916123144462608.post-42280760747826646262013-01-05T11:40:00.000-08:002014-02-21T06:17:33.497-08:00DIY Jamma To USB Converter<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
DIY Jamma To USB Converter</h2>
<br />
A couple of days ago there seemed to be an onslaught of soap-opera's :/ so it was back into the lab (read corner) to play with some tech..<br />
<br />
In
the past I had built a custom adapter that read the PS2-Keyboard
signals from my HotRod Joystick controller & spat out USB joystick and Jamma
switching signals (so I could play Mame & run my Jamma boards).<br />
<br />
This
time I wanted to be able to connect my lap-top to my BarTop (or indeed
any other Jamma cabinet), so I grabbed one of the fingerboards kindly provided
by <b>Jenginner</b> & a <b>Teensy 2</b> board.<br />
<br />
The end result was this:<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/001_-_J2U_Top.JPG" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
And from below...<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/002_-_J2U_Bottom.JPG" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
It's
a pretty stright forward setup, the Teeny 2 processor has 22 I/O pins -
so I connected 21 of them to the Player 1 & 2 joystick, coin &
button (& service) connections of the finger board.<br />
<br />
The power
for the Teensy is provided by the computer connected to the USB, and
the ground wire from the Jamma connector was wired to the Teensy's
ground pin.<br />
<br />
This arrangement allows the Teensy's I/O pins to be
short circuited to ground by the controls in the cabinets CP. (My BarTop
is based on a VGA LCD panel, so there is a VGA cable that can be
brought out to the lap-top - handling the visual side of things :D) <br />
<br />
Teensy 2's are available at: <a href="http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/</a> for $16 and for this project I used <b>Teensyduino</b> which is detailed on the same site.<br />
<br />
Teensyduino
basically puts the Teensy into a state where it thinks it's an Arduino,
and as such is rendered much simpler to program.<br />
<br />
Part of the
Teensyduino integration is the ability to put the Teensy into a mode
where it thinks it's a USB keyboard/mouse/Joystick (simultaniously as it
goes), see:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_download.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_download.html</a><br />
<a href="http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_joystick.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/td_joystick.html</a><br />
<br />
Using
the provided Teensy/Arduino editor (that can be found on the site
above) I wrote the following program (don't worry - it's not <i>too</i> complicated):<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #009966;">//<br />// Jamma to USB converter... (BarTop Edge connector interface)<br />//<br /><br />void setup() <br />{<br /> // Set all I/O pins to input (With pull-up!)...<br /> for (int p = 0; p < 21; p++)<br /> {<br /> pinMode(p, INPUT);<br /> digitalWrite(p, HIGH);<br /> }<br /> <br /> Joystick.useManualSend(true);<br />}<br /><br />void loop() <br />{<br /> // Read all the Input pins...<br /> for (int p = 0; p < 21; p++)<br /> {<br /> Joystick.button(p+1, !(digitalRead(p) & 1));<br /> }<br /><br /> Joystick.send_now();<br /> <br /> delay(5);<br />}</span><br />
<br />
Once uploaded to the chip, the program scans the I/O pins 0 -> 20 which are setup as Inputs (using: <span style="color: #009966;">pinMode(p, INPUT);</span>) and the pins 5v pull-ups activated (by: <span style="color: #009966;">digitalWrite(p, HIGH);</span>).<br />
This makes the pins sit at 5v, which can then be grounded by the switches within the Jamma controls.<br />
<br />
The main loop basically loops over every one of the 21 pins we're interested in, reads the value of each one (using: <span style="color: #009966;">!(digitalRead(p) & 1)</span> (notice I'm inverting the signal with the <span style="color: #009966;">!</span> <b>NOT</b> keyword)) & then outputs a corresponding USB-Joystick button press (using: <span style="color: #009966;">Joystick.button()</span>). <br />
(I had to invert the signal read back from the pins as with the 5v pull-up - the signal is <b>high</b> when nothing is happening & <b>low</b> when a button / joystick direction is pressed.)<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #009966;">Joystick.useManualSend(true);</span> stops the USB ouputing anything until you call: <span style="color: #009966;">Joystick.send_now();</span> inorder that all the button presses make it to the lap-top at the same time.<br />
<br />
And the <span style="color: #009966;">delay(5);</span> is to stop the chip kicking the shit out of the USB port - 200hz is more than enough..<br />
<br />
And that's about it - after redefining the 'keys' in Mame, I loaded Puzzle-Bobble up & the misses was a happy bunny. :)<br />
<br />
<b>Edit:</b><br />
<br />
Had to move a couple of wires around, ended up using the wires destined
for Coin# 1 & 2 for Service & Test. Oh, and I had a bug - the <span style="color: #009966;">Joystick.button()</span> function only takes a button number starting from 1 - so I added +1 to the 'p' variable being passed into the first parameter (and remapped the keys again).<span style="color: #009966;"><span style="color: black;"></span></span><br />
<br />
<b>Edit #2: </b><br />
<br />
<br />
Had to work through a problem I was having with my
cab->to->laptop adapter.. namely why Mame was forgetting some of
it's key mappings on start-up.<br />
<br />
The above code mapped the two
player sticks & buttons across 20 USB joystick buttons.. and Mame
does see them all when you configure the keys. But when you re-load
Mame, half of the button mappings appear as N/A<br />
<br />
I
just noticed this morning that any buttons numbered 1-15 were okay.. so
it looks like while the system does recognise my 32 button USB device..
the loading system only loops through and sets up the first the first
16!! :( (maybe normal USB controllers support 16 buttons max?)<br />
<br />
So
I did a re-write and moved the Player 1 stick to the analog X & Y
Joystick axis and moved the Player 2 stick to the Left & Right
analog shoulder axis. The remaining Player 1 & 2: Fire 1-4, Coin,
Start & Service buttons were then mapped to the first (lower) 12 USB
button indices.<br />
<br />
All works sweetly now & I can even use other DirectInput games on my cab, things like ZSnes, Sega Fusion, Etc..!! ¦)<br />
<br />
The code became:<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #339933;">//<br />// Jamma to USB converter... (BarTop Edge connector interface)<br />//<br /><br />uint16_t lastPlayer1 = 0x0000;<br />uint16_t lastPlayer2 = 0x0000;<br />uint16_t lastTest = 0x0000;<br /><br />void setup() <br />{<br /> // Set all I/O pins to input (With pull-up!)...<br /> for (int p = 0; p < 21; p++)<br /> {<br /> pinMode(p, INPUT);<br /> digitalWrite(p, HIGH);<br /> }<br /> <br /> Joystick.useManualSend(true);<br />}<br /><br />void loop() <br />{<br /> uint8_t p1Coin = !(digitalRead(0) & 1);<br /> uint8_t p1Up = !(digitalRead(18) & 1);<br /> uint8_t p1Down = !(digitalRead(17) & 1);<br /> uint8_t p1Left = !(digitalRead(16) & 1);<br /> uint8_t p1Right = !(digitalRead(15) & 1);<br /> uint8_t p1Fire4 = !(digitalRead(11) & 1);<br /> uint8_t p1Fire3 = !(digitalRead(12) & 1);<br /> uint8_t p1Fire2 = !(digitalRead(13) & 1);<br /> uint8_t p1Fire1 = !(digitalRead(14) & 1);<br /> uint8_t p1Start = !(digitalRead(19) & 1);<br /> <br /> uint8_t p2Coin = !(digitalRead(10) & 1);<br /> uint8_t p2Up = !(digitalRead(8) & 1);<br /> uint8_t p2Down = !(digitalRead(7) & 1);<br /> uint8_t p2Left = !(digitalRead(6) & 1);<br /> uint8_t p2Right = !(digitalRead(5) & 1);<br /> uint8_t p2Fire4 = !(digitalRead(1) & 1);<br /> uint8_t p2Fire3 = !(digitalRead(2) & 1);<br /> uint8_t p2Fire2 = !(digitalRead(3) & 1);<br /> uint8_t p2Fire1 = !(digitalRead(4) & 1);<br /> uint8_t p2Start = !(digitalRead(9) & 1);<br /> <br /> uint8_t testButton = !(digitalRead(20) & 1);<br /><br /> // Read all the Input pins...<br /> Joystick.button(7, p1Coin); // Coin 1<br /> Joystick.button(8, p1Fire4); // P1 - Button 4<br /> Joystick.button(9, p1Fire3); // P1 - Button 3<br /> Joystick.button(10, p1Fire2); // P1 - Button 2<br /> Joystick.button(11, p1Fire1); // P1 - Button 1<br /> Joystick.button(12, p1Start); // P1 - Start<br /> <br /> Joystick.button(1, p2Coin); // Coin 2<br /> Joystick.button(2, p2Fire4); // P2 - Button 4<br /> Joystick.button(3, p2Fire3); // P2 - Button 3<br /> Joystick.button(4, p2Fire2); // P2 - Button 2<br /> Joystick.button(5, p2Fire1); // P2 - Button 1<br /> Joystick.button(6, p2Start); // P2 - Start<br /> <br /> Joystick.button(13, testButton); // Test<br /> <br /> uint16_t player1X = 511;<br /> if(p1Right) player1X = 1023; // P1 - Right<br /> if(p1Left) player1X = 0; // P1 - Left <br /> Joystick.X(player1X);<br /><br /> uint16_t player1Y = 511;<br /> if(p1Up) player1Y = 0; // P1 - Up<br /> if(p1Down) player1Y = 1023; // P1 - Down <br /> Joystick.Y(player1Y);<br /><br /> uint16_t player2X = 511;<br /> if(p2Right) player2X = 1023; // P2 - Right<br /> if(p2Left) player2X = 0; // P2 - Left <br /> Joystick.sliderLeft(player2X);<br /><br /> uint16_t player2Y = 511;<br /> if(p2Up) player2Y = 0; // P2 - Up<br /> if(p2Down) player2Y = 1023; // P2 - Down <br /> Joystick.sliderRight(player2Y);<br /><br /> // Gather all the bits together to test if anything has changed..<br />
int player1 = p1Coin | (p1Up << 1) | (p1Down << 2) |
(p1Left << 3) | (p1Right << 4) | (p1Fire1 << 5) |
(p1Fire2 << 6) | (p1Fire3 << 7) | (p1Fire4 << 8) |
(p1Start << 9); <br /> int player2 = p2Coin | (p2Up << 1) |
(p2Down << 2) | (p2Left << 3) | (p2Right << 4) |
(p2Fire1 << 5) | (p2Fire2 << 6) | (p2Fire3 << 7) |
(p2Fire4 << 8) | (p2Start << 9); <br /><br /> // Only send USB data if something changes (stops Mame stalling)<br /> if ((player1 != lastPlayer1) || (player2 != lastPlayer2) || (testButton != lastTest)) <br /> {<br /> Joystick.send_now();<br /> }<br /> <br /> lastPlayer1 = player1;<br /> lastPlayer2 = player2;<br /> lastTest = testButton;<br /><br /> delay(2); // 2 ms<br />}<br /><br /><span style="color: black;">On
reflection, I might move the player 1 buttons to the first 4 USB
buttons (in order: 1,2,3,4) so that games that can't have their keys
redefined will see the cab's CP as a regular USB controller.. :D</span></span>Nimajaminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17426450963723377974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5167916123144462608.post-1765416835202724872012-12-30T17:24:00.000-08:002014-01-27T17:40:16.038-08:00Dual Boot R-Type 1 & 2 Arcade PCB - Day 5<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XpZhwgcPSJo/UucAQDh3GcI/AAAAAAAAAKM/JNMqF7Tt3kY/s1600/Dual+Boot+Par-Type+Marquee.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XpZhwgcPSJo/UucAQDh3GcI/AAAAAAAAAKM/JNMqF7Tt3kY/s1600/Dual+Boot+Par-Type+Marquee.jpg" height="101" width="400" /></a></div>
<h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Dual Boot R-Type 1 & 2 Arcade PCB - Day 5</h2>
<br />
Okay.. bit of a last-minute update, but..<br />
<br />
I went and carried out the last "mod-routing" and only ended up needing two of the 74LS157 chips I had fitted. <br />
<br />
(<i>The
last mod was where a logic chip had it's pin cut - I used one section
of the second multiplexer to switch between "cut & patched" and
"uncut"</i>)<br />
<br />
Beyond that I discovered why the sprites were solid-blocks of colour (in the R-Type 2 mode).. <i>really kicked my self.</i><br />
<br />
Turned
out that in my haste to burn those double-size Roms, I accidentely put
the <b>N0,1,2,3</b> data onto 4Mbit chips - instead of the 2Mbit type needed! :/ <b>*facepalm*</b><br />
<br />
That ment the middle of the Rom - in memory terms (<i>where R-Type 2 sits</i>) was in the wrong place! ¦D<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/001_-_Wrong_Roms.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Had to wipe 4 of the original Par-Type 1 (27C020) chips, as I had none left..<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/002_-_Kill_It_With_FIre.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Dropped
in some minty fresh dual-boot 27C020's into the N0,1,2&3 locations -
and wired A17 (rather than A18 as with the larger chips) to the orange <b>game-select</b> wiring.. and the sprites came back! <br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/003_-_The_Right_Stuff.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Next I had to solve the problem of dual-booting the audio Rom..<br />
<br />
Problem was that the next chip up in size had 4 more pins :'(<br />
<br />
- luckly most pins match & only some minimal patching is required (Big thanks to <b>t-m</b> for suggesting this!!! a great idea!).<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/004_-_SP_Plan.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Here's the upgraded (double-sized 27512) SP chip using a 27C010:<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/005_-_SP_Mod.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Tidy hack this one ¦)<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/006_-_SP_Mod.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
The four spare (patched) pins hang over the end of the socket - but to no ill effect.<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/007_-_SP_Inplace.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
And here she is in all her glory! <3<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/008_-_Top_Side.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
One orange wire bridges across from the top to the bottom board.. might fashion a removable plug / patch cord for this :/ hmm..<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/008_-_Bottom_Side.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
..All that's left to do now is replace the Major-Title VO-Rom (sound-sample) chip with the R-Type 2 version.. (in the morning, I'm tired now!)<br />
<br />
..and, that will fix the dodgy RT2 samples playing crowd noises!.. and that folks.. is pretty much it!<br />
<br />
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</div>
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</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/ts9-Vm0o0Z4?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe> </div>
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I think we can safely declare this <span style="font-size: small;">one<b> Job Done!</b></span> :D</div>
<br />
Again, a huge thank you to <b>Paul Swan</b> & <b>Chris Hardy</b> for the original <a href="http://www.paulswan.me/arcade/" target="_blank">conversion techniques</a>!!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
(hope you guys approve of what became of it..) ¦)</div>
<br />
And a million thanks to all of the members on Jamma+ - without whom I would never have happened across the knowledge, tools and techniques needed to carry out this job, cheers!!!<br />
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
And Happy New Year! </div>
Nimajaminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17426450963723377974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5167916123144462608.post-21350975653009543272012-12-29T17:22:00.000-08:002014-01-27T17:23:57.833-08:00Dual Boot R-Type 1 & 2 Arcade PCB - Day 4<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XpZhwgcPSJo/UucAQDh3GcI/AAAAAAAAAKM/JNMqF7Tt3kY/s1600/Dual+Boot+Par-Type+Marquee.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XpZhwgcPSJo/UucAQDh3GcI/AAAAAAAAAKM/JNMqF7Tt3kY/s1600/Dual+Boot+Par-Type+Marquee.jpg" height="101" width="400" /></a></div>
<h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Dual Boot R-Type 1 & 2 Arcade PCB - Day 4</h2>
<br />
<div class="msgBody">
Have made progress with the dual-boot electronics, and feel about half way towards finishing the job.!<br />
<br />
First I installed <b>three</b> <b>74LS157</b> Multiplexers into the three remaining <i>spare</i> chip-sites (lovingly provided by iRem \o/). <3</div>
<div class="msgBody">
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/001_-_Chips.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></div>
<div class="msgBody">
<br />
(The
green hoops bring +5v to the chips VCC pins of the 157's - as the top
corner pins of the chip-sites are wired to the 5v rail)<br />
<br />
Next I wired all the /CS (chip select) pins to ground.. which switches the three chips on permanently..</div>
<div class="msgBody">
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/002_-_Select.jpg" height="279" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Then back on the top side; the orange wire carries the <b>game-A/B</b> (0v/5v signal from the hack above), this is wired to the <b>select </b>pins of the multiplexers - which will switch between the R-Type 1 & R-Type 2 signals.</div>
<div class="msgBody">
</div>
<div class="msgBody">
</div>
<div class="msgBody">
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/003_-_Game_AB.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Next I moved the four green wires that went into the board where the tracks were cut (in the original mod (on the left)) to the <b>A0, A1, A2 & A3</b> inputs of the first multiplexer.<b> </b><i>These green wires carry the modified R-Type 1 signals.</i><br />
<br />
I then took four yellow wires from the <b>Y0, Y1, Y2 & Y3</b> outputs to the four points on the board (where the green wires came from)..</div>
<div class="msgBody">
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/004_-_R-Type1_In_&_Out.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Then
from below I found 4 board locations that connected to the original
four traces that were cut in the original <b>R-Type 1</b> mod & connected
them to the <b>B0, B1, B2 & B3</b> inputs of the multiplexer.. <i>The red wires carry the original unmodified signals, which are used by <b>R-Type 2</b>.</i></div>
<div class="msgBody">
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/004_-_R-Type2_In.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Upon booting her up, I was greeted with a lovely sight: a nice R-Type 2 boot screen and working backgrounds!! ¦D</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/-1sk2e5deCI?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<div class="msgBody">
<br />
Later
tonight I'll route the remaining board mods through the second 74LS157
and hopefully bring the sprites back! </div>
<div class="msgBody">
</div>
<div class="msgBody">
I then plan to use the third
chip (if neccesary) to handle the audio Rom selection duties..<br />
<br />
Fingers crossed It should all be running this side of the New Year!! :D</div>
Nimajaminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17426450963723377974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5167916123144462608.post-82743385286319030422012-11-28T17:07:00.000-08:002014-01-27T17:14:12.361-08:00Dual Boot R-Type 1 & 2 Arcade PCB - Day 3<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XpZhwgcPSJo/UucAQDh3GcI/AAAAAAAAAKM/JNMqF7Tt3kY/s1600/Dual+Boot+Par-Type+Marquee.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XpZhwgcPSJo/UucAQDh3GcI/AAAAAAAAAKM/JNMqF7Tt3kY/s1600/Dual+Boot+Par-Type+Marquee.jpg" height="101" width="400" /></a></div>
<h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Dual Boot R-Type 1 & 2 Arcade PCB - Day 3</h2>
<br />
Here's the circuit I would need to correctly select between two Rom chips - using a single <b>hi/low</b> "game select" signal:<br />
<br /><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/romCS.jpg" width="400" /><br /><br />(I made a mistake with my first Rom-select design (The NOT & AND gate thingy) in the first post).. <br /><br />The /CS (chip select) line on the Roms activates the chip when it goes <b>low</b>..! <br />
<br />So here, I use two sections of a 74157 to pass either the <b>hi/(active)low </b>/CS signal (or) a <b>5v</b> signal.<br /><br />
This should correctly disable the unused Rom chip with the positive signal while passing the /CS to the other one.<br />
<br />
Also..<br />
<br />
Just programmed the 27C040 ROMs for C0-3 & N0-3, wired up the A18 address pins to the previous <em>orange wire</em> patch and observed the following:<br /><br />* R-Type 1 is still fully functional (as expected).<br />* R-Type 2 has some visual errors, which are related to the extra electronics & board modifications...<br />** Minor erroneous background tiles.. Not bad, but a few wrong (similar in nature to RT1 prior to the logic/board mods).<br />** All sprites are a block of solid colour.<br /><br />So it looks as if I <i>will </i>have to add those multiplexers to switch the modifications in & out.. cool. :) <br /><br />Also
have to do something with the audio Rom.. And since I'm going to use
those multiplexers, I think I'll go with the new Rom selection logic above (and be switched with all the other board signals).Nimajaminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17426450963723377974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5167916123144462608.post-4873068601139872702012-11-16T17:00:00.000-08:002014-01-27T17:06:54.487-08:00Dual Boot R-Type 1 & 2 Arcade PCB - Day 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XpZhwgcPSJo/UucAQDh3GcI/AAAAAAAAAKM/JNMqF7Tt3kY/s1600/Dual+Boot+Par-Type+Marquee.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XpZhwgcPSJo/UucAQDh3GcI/AAAAAAAAAKM/JNMqF7Tt3kY/s1600/Dual+Boot+Par-Type+Marquee.jpg" height="101" width="400" /></a></div>
<h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Dual Boot R-Type 1 & 2 Arcade PCB - Day 2</h2>
<br />
Just performed a simple test of the double sized RT1 & 2 Roms!! :D<br />
<br />Copied all the MajorTitle-RType1 & MajorTitle-RType2 Rom images into a folder & wrote a batch file that did this:<br /><br /><span style="color: #669933;">copy /V rt_h0.bin /B + rt2_h0.bin /B combined_h0.bin /B<br />copy /V rt_h1.bin /B + rt2_h1.bin /B combined_h1.bin /B<br />copy /V rt_l0.bin /B + rt2_l0.bin /B combined_l0.bin /B<br />copy /V rt_l1.bin /B + rt2_l1.bin /B combined_l1.bin /B<br /><br />copy /V rt_n0.bin /B + rt2_n0.bin /B combined_n0.bin /B<br />copy /V rt_n1.bin /B + rt2_n1.bin /B combined_n1.bin /B<br />copy /V rt_n2.bin /B + rt2_n2.bin /B combined_n2.bin /B<br />copy /V rt_n3.bin /B + rt2_n3.bin /B combined_n3.bin /B<br /><br />copy /V rt_c0.bin /B + rt2_c0.bin /B combined_c0.bin /B<br />copy /V rt_c1.bin /B + rt2_c1.bin /B combined_c1.bin /B<br />copy /V rt_c2.bin /B + rt2_c2.bin /B combined_c2.bin /B<br />copy /V rt_c3.bin /B + rt2_c3.bin /B combined_c3.bin /B<br /><br />copy /V rt_sp.bin /B + rt2_sp.bin /B combined_sp.bin /B<br /><span style="color: black;"> </span></span><br />
<span style="color: #669933;"><span style="color: black;">This copies the R-Type 2 Rom data to the end of the R-Type 1 data & produces files twice the original size.<br /><br />Which I then burned to four 27C020 EProms (2MBit - instead of the original 1MBit ones)</span></span><br />I added a two pin connector to a capacitor near the main program Roms (H0, H1, L0 & L1),<br />with
this you can select the Hi/Low nedded for the A17 pin that toggles the
top & bottom half of the memory (and between the games).<br /><br /><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/01_-_HiLo.JPG" width="400" /><br /><br />I
bent the previously N/C address pin A17 (pin 30) out of the socket on
each of the four Roms, then joined them all together with patch wire..
(Bydo Orange!)<br /><br /><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/02_-_Lo_RT1.JPG" width="400" /><br /><br />With the pin inserted in the <b>ground</b> position, the lower half of the Rom is used & we get R-Type 1:<br /><br /><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/03_-_RT1.JPG" width="400" /><br /><br />However
when the pin is attached to 5 volts - the top half of the Rom is seen
by the board & we should get the beginnings of R-Type 2...? <br /><br /><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/04_-_Hi_RT2.JPG" width="400" /><br /><br />And............... :O We do!!! :D<br />
<br /><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/05_-_RT2.JPG" width="400" /><br /><br />Once the 27C040's arrive.. I'll do the rest of the Roms.. then.. Game on!! <br /><br /><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/06_-_RT2.JPG" width="400" /><br /><br />For a <b>Dual-Boot</b> R-Type arcade pcb!! ^_^<br /><br /><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/07_-_RT2.JPG" width="400" /><br /><br />Once
all the graphics & audio are in working order, I'll evaluate how
far I have to go to make the R-Type 1 board modifications (from the
original conversion) compatible with R-Type 2..<br /><br />As I mentioned a couple of days back, I
can use TTL Multiplexers to switch the patched & non-patch board
signals using the same hi/low signal that selects the Rom halves.Nimajaminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17426450963723377974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5167916123144462608.post-88338586354696405962012-11-14T16:54:00.000-08:002014-01-27T17:00:33.471-08:00Dual Boot R-Type 1 & 2 Arcade PCB - Day 1<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XpZhwgcPSJo/UucAQDh3GcI/AAAAAAAAAKM/JNMqF7Tt3kY/s1600/Dual+Boot+Par-Type+Marquee.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XpZhwgcPSJo/UucAQDh3GcI/AAAAAAAAAKM/JNMqF7Tt3kY/s1600/Dual+Boot+Par-Type+Marquee.jpg" height="101" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Dual Boot R-Type 1 & 2 Arcade PCB - Day 1</h2>
<br />
<br />
Okay here's the rough plan... :/<br />
<br />Use several 74LS157's (Quad 2-input Multiplexer TTL Logic chips), attach all the patch wires
involved in the R-Type 1 conversion into all the 'A' inputs..<br />
<br />
Then, connect all the
original connections (As in the <i>unmodified</i> R-Type 2 configuration) into the 'B' inputs..<br />
<br />
Then join the
outputs to the motherboard.. and a switch would be fitted to set either
game A (or) B (R-Type 1 or 2).<br /><br />For the main Rom's... I'll use 27c040's where the 27c020's were (and) 27c020's instead of the 27c010's.<br />
<br />-
Then take each Rom-image file from RT1 & RT2 (place them
'end-to-end' RT1 in the lower half of the memory & RT2 in the top
half (aligned to the relevant 1/2MBit boundary))<br />
<br />.. Then use the A/B
select line used above to drive the upper address pin, which will then
allow the mother-board to see either of the games data - as per-normal.<br />
(..grounding the select pin you boot RT1 & setting it to 5v will yield RT2) :D<br /><br />Then do something similar to the sound Rom /or/ Piggy back another 27512 & monkey with the 'Chip Select' lines.. etc.<br /><br /><strike>Hmm.. 27c040's are quite expensive.. 20 for 60 odd quid on fleaBay!! :O</strike><br />
<br />Okay.. found 10 for £16.23 .. just hope they are fast enough (nano-second wise).<br />
<br />
<img border="0" height="261" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/romLogic.jpg" width="400" /><br />
<br />
<br />Nimajaminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17426450963723377974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5167916123144462608.post-88521789224980181022012-11-11T11:40:00.000-08:002014-01-28T03:01:00.915-08:00Major Title to R-Type 1 Conversion - Day 3<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i9iJmVQ1e8s/UuaHzsiyTZI/AAAAAAAAABY/Ri8dXq1rWlM/s1600/Par-Type+Marquee.bmp" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i9iJmVQ1e8s/UuaHzsiyTZI/AAAAAAAAABY/Ri8dXq1rWlM/s1600/Par-Type+Marquee.bmp" height="50" width="400" /></a></div>
<h3>
</h3>
<h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The conversion of Major Title to R-Type 1</h2>
<h3>
<b> </b></h3>
<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
<b>Day 3: De-Solder & Replace the N0, N1, N2 & N3 Sprite Roms..</b></h3>
<h3>
<b> </b></h3>
Time to fit the remaining TTL Logic & SRAM chip..<br />
<br />
There are several
modifications to the motherboard to be carried out in this final
section..<br />
Firstly, cut several tracks on the underside of the
top-board - here:<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/0001_-_Cut.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
And here:<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/0002_-_Snip.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
(Looks rough, but that pictures are extremely zoomed in.)<br />
<br />
Next-up you have to add the new 74LS32 Quad OR Gate to one of the spare chip 'slots' on the board..<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Quite why iRem had added '<i>unused</i>' spare chip sites to their board is anyones guess.. perhaps they expected to have to bodge the boards post-production?<br />
<br />
<br />
Either way, they are a welcome coincedence for what we want to do.. the original guide recommends using the chip-site towards the outer corner of the PCB, however my board had an iRem sticker over that one..<br />
<br />
So I located the OR-Gate in the next site along:<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/0003_-_Or_Gate.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Next, you piggyback the SRAM & 74LS244 Bus-Tranceiver, like so... taking care to follow the instructions on bending out the correct pins & ensuring the correct chip orientation.<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/0004_-_SRam_Logic.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Then all that remains is to just connect it all up with some patch wire.. (just he says)<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/0005_-_WireUp.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
..and power her up! *drum-roll* <br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/0006_-_BeamUp.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
<br />
Ta-da! One humanly-affordable R-Type 1 Arcade board \o/<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/LwTRNe5Lw34?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<br />
<b>Job done!</b><br />
<br />
Massive thanks and the upmost respect to <b>Paul Swan</b> and <b>Chris Hardy</b> for the original conversion technique.. and for doing all the <b><i>really</i></b> hard-work!<br />
<br />
And a massive thank you to the various members of the <a href="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/" target="_blank"><b>Jamma+</b></a> forum who helped make this project possible, particularly; <b>ben76</b>, <b>Jenginner</b>, <b>PaulCan69</b>, <b>Lee-Lee</b> & <b>Vib</b>.<br />
<br />
It must be noted that the modification of Major Title to R-Type 2 is a little simpler than the mod above..<br />
(Fewer board modifications are required & you don't need the extra SRAM chip & logic iirc.)<br />
<br />
Overall, it took about 22 hours and cost about £20-£30 in spare parts (in addition to the Major-Title board).<br />
<br />
That also assumes you already have the tools to hand!.. (I didn't and it ended up being about £150 all-in - still half the price of the original board though!) and most of the time was taken up by de-soldering & chip-extraction (pays not to rush!).. but it should be possible to reduce that given more experience.<br />
<br />
Right, I'm off to destroy the Bydo empire..Nimajaminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17426450963723377974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5167916123144462608.post-9627790234679321052012-11-10T10:56:00.000-08:002014-01-28T03:01:11.806-08:00Major Title to R-Type 1 Conversion - Day 2.5<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i9iJmVQ1e8s/UuaHzsiyTZI/AAAAAAAAABY/Ri8dXq1rWlM/s1600/Par-Type+Marquee.bmp" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i9iJmVQ1e8s/UuaHzsiyTZI/AAAAAAAAABY/Ri8dXq1rWlM/s1600/Par-Type+Marquee.bmp" height="50" width="400" /></a></div>
<h3>
</h3>
<h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The conversion of Major Title to R-Type 1</h2>
<h3>
<b> </b></h3>
<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
<b>Day 2.5: De-Solder & Replace the N0, N1, N2 & N3 Sprite Roms..</b></h3>
<h3>
<b> </b></h3>
Okey dokey, just spent 6 hours replacing the remaining 4 Roms.. (N0, N1, N2 & N3)<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/002_-_pullOut.JPG" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Pretty much a repeat performance of before.. (shaved 2 hours off the time-tho)<br />
(256 finger-burns & counting..) <br />
<br />
Used masking tape as there wasn't much clearance between the chips being removed and the surrounding components. <br />
<br />
Also had one dead EPROM in the batch.. but for $7 for 10 second-hand on eBay, it's all good.<br />
(Getting a UV Eraser box soon.)<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/003_-_BlowMe.JPG" height="300" width="400" /> <br />
<br />
Once the ROMs were installed, all the game sprites have all appeared on screen & it's looking positive. :)<br />
<br />
The
backgrounds are still a little broken, but I'm assuming the tracks that
are to be cut 'n' patched and the extra logic is Rom addressing related.. and should sort that out.<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/004_-_InWeGo.JPG" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Hmm, in addition, the back-ground tile layer seems to be missing.. We'll have to see if that comes online once the extra SRAM chip is fitted.<br />
<br />
Here's a video of the sprites in action:<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/RhsLuJh3GW4?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe><br />
Okay.. on to the SRAM & TTL logic chips... Er.. well, maybe not tonight. The frikin' cat's stole my chair.<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/005_-_Tea_Break.JPG" height="293" width="400" />Nimajaminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17426450963723377974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5167916123144462608.post-36079913679727399112012-11-10T10:26:00.000-08:002014-01-28T03:01:19.917-08:00Major Title to R-Type 1 Conversion - Day 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i9iJmVQ1e8s/UuaHzsiyTZI/AAAAAAAAABY/Ri8dXq1rWlM/s1600/Par-Type+Marquee.bmp" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i9iJmVQ1e8s/UuaHzsiyTZI/AAAAAAAAABY/Ri8dXq1rWlM/s1600/Par-Type+Marquee.bmp" height="50" width="400" /></a></div>
<h3>
<b></b></h3>
<h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The conversion of Major Title to R-Type 1</h2>
<h3>
<b> </b></h3>
<h3>
<b>Day 2: De-Solder & Replace the C0, C1, C2 & C3 Roms..</b></h3>
<h3>
<b> </b></h3>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After sorting the Program & Audio ROMs, I thought I might attempt to remove & socket the four background graphic ROMs on the top CPU board.</div>
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/01_-_PT_C0123_Roms.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Following the advice given by a fellow member of Jamma+, I went straight for the wire cutters... as there was no real need to salvage to original ROMs. (Especially as they were of the PROM type and could not be erased to be re-written.)</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The pins were snipped along the edge of the four PROMs as far away from the PCB as possible. </div>
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/02_-_PT_C0123_Pins.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Before
de-soldering I've found it's always a good idea to flow some new solder into the joints, just to make sure theres some flux running through to the
other side of the board.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Since we are talking about a circuit board more than 20 years old.. I would advise using lead-solder with multi-core flux.</div>
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/03_-_PT_C0123_Flow.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
I then used a heated de-soldering pump to remove 90% of the solder.. It's a
cheap pump (~£15 in Maplin) and to be fair is a good tool - but the tip is prone to cracking around the tips-edge! :(<br />
<br />
Looks like a combination of heat-stress & cheap alloy..<br />
<br />
Word
of advice - keep the receipt, as you're probably not going to get more
that a couple of jobs done before it's knackerd (I'm on my second) -
Maplin seem cool with replacing it as they dont sell spare tips.<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/04_-_PT_C0123_Suck.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Finger burning time.. Grabbed each pin (by-hand) from underneath and applied my soldering iron (quickly) in such a
way as to touch/heat both the pin & the surrounding pad.<br />
<br />
The pins should
pop right out (with 128 little finger burns) without tearing any of the pcb contacts off the board. Not using too much heat, or for too long is important!<br />
<br />
Might also be a good time to recommend you use a temperature controlled iron.. ;)<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/05_-_PT_C0123_Pull.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Goodbye Mr Golf game..<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/06_-_PT_C0123_Out.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
I then ran a flux pen over the pads and used de-soldering braid (wick) to suck-up the remaining blobs of solder.<br />
<br />
Application of flux really helps you get a good solder flow & you get a satisfying
little sizzle when you apply the heat. :)<br />
<br />
But.. dont forget to clean the flux
off with an isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol soaked cotton bud, as flux is quite corrosive and could potencially eat
thru stuff over time.<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/07_-_PT_C0123_Braid.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Not bad for a first attempt..<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/08_-_PT_C0123_Clean.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Just have to fit four 32-Pin DIL sockets & were good to go..!<br />
<br />
NOTE: I thought i'd be clever and use turned-pin sockets... Talk about <b>square peg in a round hole</b>! (literally) I spent over an hour just trying to fit the chips into the sockets! while listening to Rom pins going "tink-ta-tink-tink" and have two pins bend under a chip! :(<br />
<br />
I know these sockets provide the best connection - but mate this is
b*ll*cks! For the other four chips I'm seriously thinking about using the cheaper
sockets! Much less stress on the chips and me.<br />
<br />
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/09_-_PT_C0123_Socket.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
Below is a video of the progress so far: The first part is how the
board behaved with just fitting the chips.. (graphics are still a
mess), and the second part is how it looked after moving the 3 jumpers
on the CPU board (to reflect the change from 1 to 2MBit Roms):<br />
<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/VS5ns9g1UAY?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<br />
<br />
As can be seen, the backgrounds are starting to take shape & it's actually quite playable!<br />
<br />
(This was actually the first time I'd performed a major de-soldering job on a double-sided board, it took best part of a day.. and was quite nerve racking.) <br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1VCMekvMv1c/UuaIkAcWPwI/AAAAAAAAADE/G-Iqr5cfqww/s1600/03+-+PT+C0123+Flow.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bQcBWZ2W58Q/UuaIf7QesMI/AAAAAAAAABg/gh9nqhLNk0M/s1600/00+-+PT+Audio+Rom.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<br />Nimajaminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17426450963723377974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5167916123144462608.post-40077789834012735862012-11-09T08:28:00.000-08:002014-01-28T03:01:30.447-08:00Major Title to R-Type 1 Conversion - Day 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i9iJmVQ1e8s/UuaHzsiyTZI/AAAAAAAAABY/Ri8dXq1rWlM/s1600/Par-Type+Marquee.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="background-color: black;"></span><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i9iJmVQ1e8s/UuaHzsiyTZI/AAAAAAAAABY/Ri8dXq1rWlM/s1600/Par-Type+Marquee.bmp" height="50" width="400" /></a></div>
<h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The conversion of Major Title to R-Type 1</h2>
<h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</h2>
A top bloke <b>ben76</b> over on the <a href="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/" target="_blank">Jamma+</a> site brought my attention to a modification devised by Paul Swan and Chris Hardy to convert an iRem Major-Title arcade PCB to run either R-Type 1 or 2.<br />
<br />
With the original PCB of R-Type 1 costing upwards of £2-300 a conversion of the much cheaper golf board is very attractive.. and just had to be attempted.<br />
<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fZYKEJ6JDR0/UuaIo9hCiqI/AAAAAAAAAEI/wO6Wt_YHGi0/s1600/MT+Title.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fZYKEJ6JDR0/UuaIo9hCiqI/AAAAAAAAAEI/wO6Wt_YHGi0/s1600/MT+Title.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b>Major Title</b> runs on an iRem M84 pcb, while <b>R-Type 1</b> runs on an M72 board and <b>R-Type 2</b> on an M82.<br />
<br />
They all appear to have quite similar hardware, give or take a tile-layer.. and there appears to be some memory and addressing differences. The work of Paul & Chris bridge these gaps by way of a new set of program ROM's and a set of physical board modifications & additions to be carried out.<br />
<br />
The original modification guides can be found below:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.paulswan.me/arcade/m82-m72.htm" target="_blank">Major Title to R-Type (M72) Conversions</a><br />
<a href="http://www.paulswan.me/arcade/m82-m84.htm" target="_blank">Major Title to R-Type 2 (M84) Conversions</a><br />
<br />
Major respect to these guys, this couldn't have been easy to fathom at all! A serious understanding of the hardware and game code must have been needed to pull this off! Hat's off to you indeed!<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TiBvnuCYlrU/UuaIl0frzvI/AAAAAAAAAD0/aM8xu_iuV2c/s1600/09+-+PT+C0123+Socket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
..so with guide in hand, several ingredients are needed:<br />
<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<u><b>Ingredients..</b></u></h3>
<ul>
<li>1 x iRem <b>Major Title</b> arcade board:</li>
</ul>
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/MT_PCB.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>1 x <b>27512</b> EPROM</li>
<li>9 x <b>27C010</b> EPROMs</li>
<li>4 x <b>27C020</b> EPROMs:</li>
</ul>
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/RT_Rom.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>An EPROM Programmer capable of writting the above:</li>
</ul>
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/RT_Burner.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>9 x 32-Pin DIL socket
</li>
<li>1 x 28-Pin DIL socket
</li>
</ul>
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/RT_Sockets.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>1 x <b>HM62256-12</b> (or equiv.) SRAM chip:</li>
</ul>
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/RT_Ram.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
And a pair of 74 series TTL logic chips:</div>
<ul>
<li>1 x <b>74LS244</b> Tri-State Octal Buffer / Line driver chip</li>
</ul>
and an: <br />
<ul>
<li>1 x <b>74LS32</b> Quadruple 2-Input Positive-OR Gate chip </li>
</ul>
<ul>
</ul>
<h3 style="text-align: center;">
<u><b>Day 1: Replace the L0, L1, H0, H1 & SP Roms.</b></u></h3>
The first step was to burn a new set of program ROMs, as these were socketed it seemed like the first port of call..<br />
<br />
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</div>
<div class="msgBody">
</div>
<div class="msgBody">
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/PT_-_cpuRoms.jpg" height="300" width="400" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
</h3>
Four 27C010's were programmed with the data for the L0, L1, H0 & H1 chips (which contain the code for the V30 CPU).</div>
<div class="msgBody">
</div>
<div class="msgBody">
At that point I decided to power up the board, just to see how far it would work..</div>
<br />
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<object class="BLOGGER-youtube-video" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" data-thumbnail-src="https://ytimg.googleusercontent.com/vi/NQncN5Cm_JQ/0.jpg" height="266" width="320"><param name="movie" value="https://youtube.googleapis.com/v/NQncN5Cm_JQ&source=uds" /><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF" /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><embed width="320" height="266" src="https://youtube.googleapis.com/v/NQncN5Cm_JQ&source=uds" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qnjvkjmsxls/UuaIkkb_yPI/AAAAAAAAADU/_QLDtKHHVY0/s1600/05+-+PT+C0123+Pull.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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</div>
Happy days indeed! :D<br />
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
While the sound & graphic data was garbage (the rest of the ROM's still held the Major Title data), R-Type can clearly be seen to be running!</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The <i>next easy</i> step was to replace the 27C512 (SP) EPROM holding the sound code:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="msgBody">
<img border="0" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/00_-_PT_Audio_Rom.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Once this was done, the sweet sound of <span class="highlight">R-Type</span> filled the air! :) </div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Next stop, de-solder the remaining chips and fit the sockets.. </div>
Nimajaminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17426450963723377974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5167916123144462608.post-79166336137211855882012-11-06T16:43:00.000-08:002014-01-27T16:45:41.311-08:001943 (bootleg) - Repair Log<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fei1JNsJwCY/Uub9CisdcFI/AAAAAAAAAKA/TknK2lY2NJE/s1600/1943_marquee.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fei1JNsJwCY/Uub9CisdcFI/AAAAAAAAAKA/TknK2lY2NJE/s1600/1943_marquee.jpg" height="99" width="320" /></a></div>
<h2 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
1943 (bootleg) - Repair Log</h2>
<br />
Just got back from the pub with a fellow member of J+ ..who has kindly set me up with
this fixer-upper 1943 bootleg pcb (Nice to meet you dude! & Thanks again mate!)..<br />
<br /><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/02_-_PatchUp.jpg" width="400" /><br /><br />Initial
reports were of no-display & partial audio response, a quick look
over the board revealed some cracked solder joints on the primary
capacitors (the big fekers in the far left) - and a suspect patch wire
near the Jamma connector..<br /><br /><img border="0" height="300" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/03_-_PowerUp.jpg" width="400" /><br /><br />Cleaned
her up, eyeballed the soldering & removed the patch wire which
seemed to wire the second coin button to a severed track (that would have
carried the 1st coin switches signal).. <br />
<br />
Installed a new patch that
connected the coin-signal to the service switch (which is how I coin up
all my other boards) & powered her up... but.<br /><br />Nada.. Ziltch! :'( ..Got nothing initially. <br />
<br />
But remembering how my bootleg copy of Twin-Cobra
behaved, I took a risk and turning the 5v voltage up (slowly!) on my adjustable supply ... <i>:S</i> (always tense time doing that!) ...<br /><br /><span style="font-size: medium;">And wouldn't you know it.. Bling!!!</span> At 5.9v she woke up out of her slumber. ¦)<br /><br /><img border="0" height="400" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/04_-_Title.jpg" width="300" /><br /><br />Forgot
how basic this game looks after hanging around Twin-Cobra & the
R-Type's!!<br />
<br />
Its got a very distinctive Red, Green & Blue palette...
But come on, what other game has a Tsunami as a power up?!! Oooh
Yeeah... :o)<br />
<br />
And the twin sound chip setup in this game is mental! :D Esp. when the continue music plays over the top of the background tune! It gets crazily busy!!<br /><br /><img border="0" height="400" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/05_-_Tsunami.jpg" width="300" /><br /><br />The stories not over though...<br /><br />Playing
further into the game I noticed that the back-ground tiles above the
sea (& below the clouds) had some corruption as they passed by
certain regions of the screen.<br /><br /><img border="0" height="400" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/06_-_BG_Glitch.jpg" width="300" /><br /><br />However, the corruption clears up when the tiles reach the bottom of the screen!<br /><br /><img border="0" height="400" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/07_-_BG_Okay.jpg" width="300" /><br /><br />This
feels like a RAM issue.. and not all of it, perhaps just the chips
responsible for the middle section of the frame-buffer!?! :/ Hmmm..?<br />
<br />Edit: aha.. It's not all of the BG-Tiles that are broken.. There is one island that scrolls by intact!! Rom then? (or both?)<br /><br />But it's bed-time now... I'm going to have to tackle Level 2 another time.<br /><br /><img border="0" height="400" src="http://www.jammaplus.co.uk/forum/uploads/5395/08_-_Level_2.jpg" width="300" /><br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-size: 10px;"><br /></span>Nimajaminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17426450963723377974noreply@blogger.com